Well, the best of intentions did not result in a posting in November. As usual there are multiple reasons, and amazingly some of them exciting, all of them positive. Let me fill you in on all the developments...
My Canada to Cuba commute. even with the stop in Toronto including delay was routine. An issue with getting all the luggage aboard at Pearson translated to 30 bags not arriving in Holguin with us. Although my suitcases were last off the belt, I was thrilled to see them. A quick stop at the money exchange and outside in a blast of tropical sunshine to meet the cabbie my son in law had arranged. Off to the bus station and time to grab a sandwich and drink before the 5 pm departure. Pleased to see my son in law's smiling face and his father's vintage motorcycle sidecar at the arrival in Santiago de Cuba.
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| Santiago de Cuba |
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| vintage cars |
Clearly the words wonderful and Cuba belong together when
describing any travel there but...add solo and it's over the top. It was what could only be described as a working vacation but the most fun I've had for a while. I certainly have experience with solo travel but that is my commute to work, this was completely different. It's a lovely selfish experience to only have to think of yourself as far as schedules, decisions etc and with the total Spanish immersion it was better to not have anyone to speak English with. My helpful Cuban son in law was of course available and it was great to visit with him. He (with my daughter's oversight) had found me a lovely casa, a professor and scoped out restaurants. Details to follow.
I spent four weeks in Santiago de Cuba with a room in a casa particular (Cuban version of B&B) in the Sueno area (quiet residential spot near the university) with a lovely family in a large room with two beds, ensuite (hot water), large closet, air conditioner, fan and fridge. The linens were changed every three days as I was told I'd sleep better in clean sheets. The room cost $15 and would have been
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| breakfast of champions |
the same price for two people. La senora (Maria Christina or Tina) was everyone's grandmother and there were three generations plus 'la domestica' (cleaning lady) to try to figure out what I was saying. I was spoiled with a huge daily breakfast of fruit plate, eggs various ways, bread, ham, cheese, homemade juice (jugo natural) tea and anything else I mentioned I liked ex. mermelada/conserva etc. Seriously enough food for breakfast and lunch and this costs $3/day per person. Had my own key and came and went as I pleased. Watched Cuban baseball playoffs frequently on TV with my host Luis and we agreed Las Tunas are going to be the champs. As of yesterday they're still in first place. He was pleased to find someone to watch the games as the Europeans who visit only watch/understand soccer. La senora (and most of Cuba) have enjoyed novellas for years - first on radio, now TV and moving from Brazilian to Turkish and East Indian dubbed into Spanish. It's a serious addiction. Don't try to interrupt a viewing just sayin.
La profesora Cecilia is retired from Universidad de Oriente and was in fact Dean of the Spanish department when our daughter studied there 15 years ago. She is fluent in Spanish, English, Russian and French and is well travelled having taught/studied in various countries Ghana, Spain, Canada, Russia, England etc. over her career. She has a comfortable home less than a block from my casa and
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| not a tourist beach pose |
conducts lessons in her airy third floor veranda. An initial assessment revealed that although I have a fairly extensive vocabulary (nouns) and my pronunciation is acceptable my grammar (verbs, pronouns, tenses etc) is abysmal. This wasn't news to me as I have avoided working on the grammar for over two decades. Cecilia later shared that she was gobsmacked when she did my initial testing as she had never encountered a student who could communicate in another language without verbs! The classes were conducted entirely in Spanish. As Cecilia stated "it's Spanish you're learning, I'll only use English if you're stuck and it adds to your comprehension". Being forced to explain the various situations I found myself in daily was a steep learning curve. For example, when both my RBC credit cards got blocked for 'fraud security' after I attempted to get a cash advance. This meant my daughter had to Western Union me the funds and did you know that a Canadian cannot receive a WU transfer there, it has to be a Cuban? Good thing I have connections. So for these amazing, customized private lessons I paid $5/hr and did two hours of class per day. I had asked for more but Cecilia assured me that this was plenty and with the homework and extra reading of three to four hours daily...she was correct. It took a lot of work to earn an E (excellent) on my homework or a "muy bien" in my oral replies as she's a tough cookie. Cecilia is an intelligent, independent feminist, a bit older than me, who knows Cuba, loves good food, has children and grandchildren like myself and as Anne of Green Gables would say...I feel we are....kindred spirits. I am already planning a second session in March.
With Cecilia's assistance, I managed to live less like a tourist and learned/put together various things I'd wondered about for years. I shopped for pan suave at the local panaderia (bakery) fruit / veggies off the market cart, found supplies and ways around the city, navigated the new supermarket etc. We went on a field trip to a lovely hilltop restaurant in Puerto Boniato and then visited the cemetery where Fidel and my friend Liliana who passed away two years ago are resting. I enjoyed two weekends in Chivirico where it's always nice to escape the city and hang out with friends. Stayed with my nurse friend Elena and visited other friends in the area. Clearly my grammar has a long ways to go but I noticed that conversation was much easier. For example, Elena's parents (who I've known for over 20 yrs) made an effort to chat with me vs the nods, smiles, hand gestures, dictionary and Elena translating attempts we've made at communicating in the past. And clearly it's a different level of conversation that can be conducted. So, this gives me the motivation to continue with the homework....
It wasn't easy to return to the cold and snow of Canada but the pending arrival of a new grandchild helped. I overnighted in the city on the way in, spending some time with a friend and visiting with the granddaughter. Since it looked like the expected arrival due in about a week was a ways off, I headed home Tuesday afternoon. Wednesday morning I received a lovely photo of our 9lb 7oz grandson. I extended congratulations to all and made plans to head back down at the end of the week as I'd arranged for our oldest grandson to spend a few days here. So last week was spent enjoying the company of grandchildren, visiting friends and getting some errands in. I also attended the movie Bohemian Rhapsody and if you get the chance to see it, do so and you'll understand why it's being nominated for Golden Globe awards etc. Headed home for the weekend, ate some lobsters, got my snow tires on, did some Frenchy shopping, enjoyed supper with our German chef and friends and stuffed a couple of stockings for the mission.
On the topic of work, this will after all the yanging on about it, come as a complete surprise but....I have a six week contract to be TB nurse in Baffin. Over the past few years Nunavut has had a major outbreak of TB, to the point that entire communities are screened and treated if required. TB teams of epidemiologist, diagnostic imaging techs, Dr and nurses go in with mobile equipment and deal with the outbreak and later a nurse maintains the program. I feel as if it's been nine months gestation to get to this point, no one should have to be that persistent to work in an area which is drastically understaffed. I am heading to Clyde River (Kanngiqtugaapik) from January 2 - February 14. This causes looks of confusion when I state this locally as the small village of Clyde River, NS is five minutes drive from my house which I pass through on the way to the highway. Clyde River, Nunavut pop. 900 is a traditional Inuit community at 70N latitude near the Davis Strait. Of course 24 hrs of darkness at present, but only -24c this week so quite pleasant. I'm pleased to be traveling through Ottawa and thus visiting with the first born daughter on the way in and out and we'll hang out at the Hilton Garden Inn as it's only seven minutes from her place. This is a new region, new community, new program and no on call with just a Mon. to Fri. position, so lots of things to look forward to. Have been trying to sort out the internet access to keep in touch and there are several options as well as the work network so you'll still be hearing from me.
I've gotten the Christmas decorations out (with the usual waves of nostalgia as I recall the times when our kids were small) and am enjoying the cozy atmosphere. There's a tree on the front steps to be brought in - this in itself is an amazing statement, as the non retired shore captain usually was pressured to bring one home by December 22. It will be a busy holiday celebration this year as the oldest daughter will be home for five days - likely her last solo holidays as 2019 will be the year for her husband to join her - Citizenship & Immigration Canada willing. We'll have all the grandchildren here on December 23rd as well as the extended family for supper and then join the youngest daughter (nurse working Christmas) on Boxing Day for our family meal. The nurse daughter is moving to a new job in the local hospital (my old stomping ground) as they plan to build on property they were gifted and our son in law is a lobster fisherman. So lots of changes.
This evening I survived assisting the life partner with the installation of a new microwave - although it's not an exercise I plan to ever be involved in again and no I don't want to talk about it. A few more craft projects to finish up and some wrapping. Off to the city the end of the week for some visiting and concert attending with a friend and then the shore captain. Time to wrap this up as the oldest grandson will be coming after school tomorrow and since he's told me that my chocolate chip cookies are the best he's ever tasted (what a charmer) I'd best fill up that cookie jar.
