Springtime in the north is a glorious
season with the 24/7 hours of sunlight (takes some adjusting to return to
sunsets and not having to wear sunglasses at any hour) tundra flowers and
willow popping up and the majority of the community heading out to hunt. In the
northern Baffin region this means “out on the ice” or “at the floe edge” as
the various members of the food chain come together there. Lots of seals,
narwhales, polar bears, various birds, and….tourists. Apparently a guided trip to
the floe edge costs $8,000 + depending on the outfitter. We tagged along with a
group of about 12 (who were heading out on the floe edge the following day) for an evening
performance by the local Inuit theatre group and it was great! Began with O
Canada in Inuktuit, authentic amautis (parkas), throat singing, drum dancing,
Inuit game demo, history and culture. This is a performance put on for the
cruise ship passengers in the summer, so they’re quite polished. We had a
representative in from Quark Expeditions (one of the adventure cruise
companies) who are interested in partnering with the elders and I was astounded
to learn that last year there were 24 visits to Pond Inlet by cruise ships,
usually it’s 17 - 20 but apparently they did a turnover of passengers here vs
Resolute Bay due to ice conditions. Even with the smaller ships of 120 - 180
passengers (plus crew of 70 - 90) that is a LOT of people to put through a
community pop. 1200. The smaller vessels are in the $14,000 per passenger for
14 day cruise price range. And that’s not factoring in the Crystal Serenity
with the 1100 passengers which has done the NW Passage transit twice - $23,000
per passenger is a hefty fee. I’m glad to be on a working vacation here vs
cruising.
The Elders Tea routine - 10 am to
the Hamlet office to pick up a purchase order for $375, then the COOP, which
has just opened, for food and prizes for the games. At 1pm we head to the
Visitors Centre and begin a full meal defined as a main course (such as roast,
shepherds pie, ribs etc) salads, cheese, salami, veggies, fruit, yogurt,
cookies, tea and coffee. By 2:30 pm one of the elders in the Catholic church
says grace and we sing the Doxology in Inuktuit (well I hum….praise God from
whom all blessings flow….) and enjoy the spread. Then following cleanup there is a dice
game with prizes in the middle which sort of resembles Yankee swap and involves
lots of running, squeals and aggressive grabbing of coveted items. I didn’t win
the bannock this week, although I had my hands on it several times. Those
elders in their late 80s are quick! By about 4pm they disperse and I can
usually fit in at least one home visit before 5pm. For the most part, the work
is Mon to Fri but an ill client can mean a callback.
My replacement is booked to arrive on
Monday and I fly out Friday so that will be good for the switch - no handover
notes to write, can introduce her to the clients etc. There is coverage booked
for the summer, but it seems that agency nurses are the majority. The nurses
here were surprised to find that I’m a government casual. The agency nurse I replaced
wasn’t well received here and I’m not sure if she was new to homecare, new to
the north, just not a good fit, but if the stories were true, she was in really
over her head and mean to the elders..…there was some major trust rebuilding
required when I began. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the clients and will miss them.
A crochitchy old fellow who teases me every visit had bumped his elbow getting
back into the house from the Dr clinic and when I asked to look at it told me
(through the interpreter) that I was trying to flirt with him and in front of
his wife. Going to miss this place and its people...only four more days to work.
Housing is an issue in this community as
it’s dated (the group where I am was built in 1986) poorly maintained (original carpets) and
not well cleaned when staff leave. I am far from a fastidious housekeeper but
spent about four hours cleaning on my way in. Good thing as the psychiatry
resident stayed with me the first week and arrived without warning that afternoon, it looks like your dirt when
you’re there. The physician and resident stayed in the adjoining apartment last
week and had to do laundry to make the bed, empty garbage, clean the kitchen
etc. on arrival. Yuck. Clearly no one checks the apartments on exit here. I’ve
eaten most of my food, was gifted more by those leaving and will pass on any
remaining to Levina when I exit so that I can likely buckle the two duffles
into one. I’ve used up the yarn I brought in making a shawl which I’m keeping
for me, a scarf and dishcloths which I’ve gifted as well as two hats which I
learned new stitches from. I’ve worked my way through various seasons on my
recorded hard drive, finished my book to leave here, studied some Spanish and
worked on my Mom journal, which after seven years is getting more
complete. Always good to have solo time to work on those projects.
On my homeward commute I’m flying down to
Iqaluit and then through Kuujjuaq, Quebec, on to Montreal then Halifax. I’m disappointed
to not connect through Ottawa for a family visit but when I left with the last minute ticket
booking, there was no chance to argue as the duty travel office was closed by
the time I got my flights for the next day and there is only the 24 hr. grace
period. Sigh. It’ll be a long day and in late but I’ll be home.
And with my plan to enjoy (hopefully the weather cooperates) a Maritime summer for the next three months before leaving for six weeks in Europe, followed by a month in Cuba...that means there will only be a time for a very short contract in December...if at all. We'll see what the universe allows.
And with my plan to enjoy (hopefully the weather cooperates) a Maritime summer for the next three months before leaving for six weeks in Europe, followed by a month in Cuba...that means there will only be a time for a very short contract in December...if at all. We'll see what the universe allows.